Overview
Chogolisa is one of the impressive and elegant peaks in the Karakoram. Its four ridges, of which three have already been climbed, culminate in the form of two summits. The peak is highly exposed to winds with deep snow.
Herman Buhl and Kurt Demerger attempted this peak first time in 1957 jus Chogolisa I and Long Ridge to Chogolisa II Close up on Upper Baltoro Glaciert two weeks after the successful climb of Broad Peak. They called off their attempt at 7100 meters due to bad weather and on way back the conqueror of Killer Mountain(Nanga Parbat) lost his life. However, M. Fujihara and K. Hirai ofJapanmade the first successful North East summit on August 4, 1958. Austrian climbers G. Ammerer and F. Pressl made the slightly higher SouthClimbers Ascending Chogolisa West summit on August 3 1975.
Itinerary
| Day01 | Itinerary Arrive to Islamabad and transfer to hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day02 | Itinerary Briefing in Alpine Club of Pakistan Residence Hotel | |
| Day03 | Itinerary Drive Islamabad – Chilas 11–12 hrs. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day04 | Itinerary Drive Chilas – Skardu 8–9 hrs. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day05 | Itinerary Skardu rest day. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day06 | Itinerary Skardu – Askoli. Chogolisa Peak seen from the distance on Baltoro Glacier. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day07 | Itinerary Askoli – Bardumal. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day08 | Itinerary Bardumal – Paiju. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day09 | Itinerary Rest day at Paiju. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day10 | Itinerary Paiju – Urdukus. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day11 | Itinerary Urdukus – Goro II. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day12 | Itinerary Goro II – Vigne Glacier. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day13 | Itinerary Vigne Glacier – Base Camp Residence Camp | |
| Day14–36 | Itinerary Climbing period Residence Camp | |
| Day37 | Itinerary Base Camp – Goro II. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day38 | Itinerary Goro II – Paiju. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day39 | Itinerary Paiju – Korofong. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day40 | Itinerary Korofong – Askoli. Overnight at camp Residence Camp | |
| Day41 | Itinerary Askoli – Skardu. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day42 | Itinerary Skardu – Chilas. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day43 | Itinerary Chilas – Islamabad. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day44 | Itinerary Debriefing in Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel Residence Hotel | |
| Day45 | Itinerary Departure to your own destinations |
- All Airport pick and drop
- Both ways air fare between Islamabad – Gilgit – Islamabad.
- Transportation briefing, debriefing, and sightseeing.
- Transportation between Islamabad – Chilas
- Three nights’ Accommodation, twin bed room in Islamabad (bed & breakfast)
- Three nights in Islamabad Hotel with full board.
- Two nights in Chilas Hotel with full board.
- Local staff wages, insurance, food, and equipment.
- Low porters to carry expedition and trekking equipment, foods.
- Way up 75kg each climbing member.
- Way down 50kg each climbing member.
- All trekking and base camp foods.
- Comfortable members tent, Mess tent, Kitchen tent, store tent, office tent, shower tent, toilet tent, table, chairs & kitchen utensils.
- Assistance for reconfirmation of international flight tickets.
- All camping fees, road taxes & bridge crossing fees.
- Low porters' equipment.
- Documentation & climbing permit.
- CKNP west management fee
- Royalty fee and additional member fee
- Liaison officer kit allowance, food, flight fare.
- Electric generator / solar system at base camp.
- Heating system at base camp.
- Member international flight tickets
- Helicopter emergency rescue fees (refundable if not used, currently US$9000/-)
- Members' climbing gear
- Member personal insurance
- High altitude tent
- High altitude food
- High altitude porter
- Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone calls, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks
- Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature
- Custom clearing charges (import and export of equipment)
- EPI gas and oxygen cylinder
- Any unforeseen expenses (e.g., roadblocks, extra hotel stays, or additional days at Base Camp)
- If trekking and climbing members split during the period, extra expenses will be charged accordingly.
- 1 PIECE - DOWN SUITS
- 1 PAIR - SUMMIT SHOES (CLIMBING BOOT)
- 1 PAIR - TREKKING SHOES (WALKING SHOES)
- 1 PIECE - SLEEPING BAG
- 1 PAIR - CRAMPONS
- 1 PIECE - SUMMIT SNOW GOGGLES
- 1 PAIR - SUMMIT GLOVES
- 2 PAIR - NORMAL GLOVES
- 2 PIECE - SUN GLASS
- 1 SET - ICE AXE
- 1 SET - HARNESS
- 1 PIECE - JUMAR
- 2 PIECE - LOCKING CARBINEERS
- 1 PIECE - DOWN FILLED MATTRESS (AIR MATTRESS)
- 2 PAIRS - SUMMIT SOCKS
- 1 PIECE - CLIMBING BAG 40 LTR
- 1 PIECE - HELMET
- 1 PIECE - DOWN JACKET
- 1 PIECE - DOWN TROUSER
- 1 PIECE - FIGURE OF 8 (DESCENDER)
- 1 PIECE - HEAD LAMP
- 1 PIECE - GORTEX JACKET
- 1 PIECE - GORTEX TROUSER
- 1 PIECE - WIND PROOF JACKET
- 2 PIECE - FLEECE JACKET
- 1 PIECE - FLEECE TROUSER
- 1 PAIR - FLEECE INNER GLOVES
- 1 PIECE - NON LOCKING CARABINEER
- 1 PIECE - WATER BOTTLE
- 1 PIECE - TAB SLING
- 2 PAIRS - LIGHT TREKKING PANTS
- 2 PIECE - NECK WARMERS
- 1 PIECE - SUN PROTECT CREAM
- 1 PIECE - LIP GUARD
- 2 PIECE - DUFFEL BAGS
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Voices
from the Mountains
— Nouman Khan, Italy
— Daniel Joy, Spain
